As a wine region, how can the Walla Walla Valley be described? Is it the new/next/northern Napa?
Please. About the only thing Walla Walla and Napa have in common is wine—and maybe some of the prices. Napa is a short drive from San Francisco and in the past three decades, it’s become a cocktail hour for Bay Area communities. Walla Walla,
on the other hand, is a destination, about
five hours away from the big city.
Given the travel time involved, it’s unlikely you’ll show up in this eastern Washington town without a little thought. But as one of the state’s fastest-growing wine regions, with 110 wineries at press time, the Walla Walla Valley is definitely a destination worth thinking about.
My job as editor of Wine Press Northwest takes me to Walla Walla fairly regularly, but for those less fortunate, May is the perfect time to venture east. Many tasting rooms that are normally closed to the public open their doors for Spring Release Weekend (May 5–6) and Balloon Stampede Weekend (May 12–13).
Here are my suggestions for a few wineries to check out in Walla Walla. For more information, visit the
Walla Walla Wine Alliance or
Tourism Walla Walla.
About 70 of the valley’s 110 licensed wineries are open to visitors and have wine to sell. If you’ve been paying attention to the region over the past decade, you’re already familiar with leaders such as Leonetti Cellar, Woodward Canyon Winery, Dunham Cellars, L’Ecole No. 41 and Seven Hills Winery. Here are some up-and-comers you may not know about—but should.
Zerba Cellars: Cecil and Marilyn Zerba’s winery has become one of the region’s hottest in a very short time. Their first three vintages have brought accolades and fans. In particular, syrah, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and a blend called Wild Z should be on your list of must-try wines. Zerba is in Milton-Freewater, Oregon, about 15 miles south of downtown Walla Walla.
Va Piano Vineyards: Justin and Liz Wylie have built a beautiful new winery south of Walla Walla near the Oregon border and their first wines have been nothing short of superb. Va Piano focuses on red varieties, including syrah, cabernet sauvignon and a blend called Bruno’s II.
Rulo Winery: Walla Walla has a reputation for more expensive wines, but Rulo bucks the trend with superb Rhône varieties at fair prices. Kurt Schlicker and Vicki Ritzinger are the people behind this boutique producer south of downtown. They are best known for sumptuous syrahs and viogniers.
Basel Cellars: By far the most amazing facility in Walla Walla is Basel Cellars, a mansion-turned-winery south of town. And the wines—primarily reds—live up to the surroundings, thanks to the talents of winemaker Trey Busch. Basel Cellars offers grandeur best experienced ad locum.
Cougar Crest Winery: One of the true rising stars in the valley, Cougar Crest is located near the airport. Deborah and Dave Hansen’s wines are marvelous. The syrah, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc should be highly sought after.
Colvin Vineyards: Owner/winemaker Mark Colvin is coming into his own with an array of red wines. While his blends, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah and cabernet franc are worth exploring, the really interesting wine in the lineup is carmenere, an obscure red Bordeaux variety that is now made by at least three valley wineries. Colvin’s tasting room is also near the airport.
Five Star Cellars: Next door to Colvin Vineyards, this father-son operation is on a rocket ship. Five Star’s syrahs, merlots and cabernet sauvignons consistently rate among the finest in the state.
FOOD AND LODGING
Alas, man and woman cannot live on wine alone, so here are some of my favorite places in the valley to eat and sleep.
RESTAURANTSThanks to the burgeoning wine industry, some great eateries have arrived in Walla Walla. Here are my favorites.
Merchants: This downtown sandwich shop and deli is worth the drive alone. Located on Main Street near Waterbrook Winery’s tasting room. Merchants is a great stop for lunch. It’s locally famous for its deli selections, espresso, bakery, wine shop and live music. 21 E. Main St.; (509) 525-0900.
Whitehouse Crawford: Located downtown in the same building as Seven Hills Winery, Whitehouse Crawford may be the finest dining experience in town. Its Northwest-inspired menu and local wine list are great reasons to stop for lunch or dinner. Reservations recommended. 55 W. Cherry St.; (509) 525-2222.
CreekTown Cafe: You will love the food and casual atmosphere at this fairly new operation south of downtown. A meal at CreekTown will give you the opportunity to relax after a long day of wine tasting. Reservations recommended. 1129 S. Second; (509) 522-4777.
26brix: This upscale Main Street restaurant, which opened last year, quickly became a favorite for wine lovers looking for the quality dining experience more likely to be found in bigger cities. Reservations recommended. 207 W. Main St.; (509) 526-4075.
LODGINGWalla Walla has plenty of chain motels. But if you’re looking for something different, try one of these. (Note, you’ll need reservations well in advance if you hope to get a room on one of the special event weekends.) Of the chain motels, the Best Western in Walla Walla caters to wine travelers with its grape-themed motifs. In a pinch, there are plenty of accommodates 45 miles to the west in the Tri-Cities, with several limousine services available to take you on your tour.
Marcus Whitman Hotel: ne of eastern Washington’s finest hotels has been restored to the grandeur it enjoyed when it opened before the Great Depression. Want the best? You’ll find it at the Marcus Whitman, in the heart of downtown Walla Walla. 6 W. Rose St.; (509) 525-2200.
Weinhard Hotel: This century-old Victorian building is off the beaten path in the charming town of Dayton. The Weinhard has 15 rooms and is near the highly regarded Patit Creek Restaurant. Dayton is about 30 miles northeast of Walla Walla, so you’ll have a moderate but enjoyable drive to the main wine-touring routes. 235 E. Main St., Dayton; (509) 382-4032.
Inn at Abeja: John Abbott and Molly Galt, formerly of Canoe Ridge Vineyards, started Abeja, a highly regarded winery east of Walla Walla. In the process, they opened the Inn at Abeja, which features five suites/cottages that range in price from $210 to $285 per night. Reservations for big wine and other event weekends are handed out on a lottery basis, though accommodations are easier to get other times of the year. 2014 Mill Creek Rd.; (509) 522-1234.
Bed-and-breakfast inns: It’s a fact that wine travelers tend to enjoy the B&B experience. Walla Walla now has at least eight B&Bs and another nine guesthouses, thanks to the burgeoning wine industry. The growth is phenomenal, and many of these already are booked two years in advance for the big wine weekends. Visit
Tourism Walla Walla to for specific information.
Contributing Editor Andy Perdue is author of The Northwest Wine Guide: A Buyer’s Handbook
(Sasquatch; $14.95). He’s also the Northwest columnist for Vineyard & Winery Management.
Read his blog, The Wine Knows.