Wine
Discovering Dionysus
Though we can’t get enough of soothing, mouth-watering Italian wine, why should they get all the credit? Greeks practiced the art of winemaking long before it became a drink we all fancy. Get in touch with your ancient roots and go Greek

Nineteen hundred years before grapevines were planted in Bordeaux—in 1600 BC—the Minoans of Crete had a sophisticated and thriving wine trade. By 900 BC, Greek wines were sought after throughout the known world, and the ancient Greeks had already laid much of the groundwork for the spread of viticulture and winemaking throughout Europe, Russia, Asia Minor and North Africa.

In the Middle Ages, the great Greek winemaking tradition began to suffer under a series of foreign rulers—Frankish warlords, the Venetians and finally the Ottoman Turks. The situation didn’t improve during the turbulent period from Greek independence in 1820 through the two world wars. Though large amounts of wine were made in Greece, the focus had shifted away from quality. In 1973, however, millionaire shipping magnate John Carras released the first vintage of his boutique wine Chateau Carras, and the critical acclaim that it received inspired a quality revolution in Greek wines.

By the middle of the 1980s, Greece was producing a significant quantity of very good wines, but the best ones—often from small wineries—rarely made it to the United States. When they did, they usually came in nonrefrigerated containers that virtually guaranteed the wine would be ruined when it arrived. Because of this, many Americans’ impression of Greek wine has been limited to the unfamiliar flavors of retsina and the occasional glass of low-quality Greek wine. In the last five years, the situation has changed dramatically, and a large selection of the best wines of Greece are now available in Washington state, all shipped properly and tasting as the winemakers intended; many are excellent.

Greek wines can be intimidating: the grape varietals, the geographic regions and even the script on the bottles are often unfamiliar. But the rewards of drinking these wines make them worth a little investigation. To help you navigate the labels, here are descriptions of some of the most common grape varieties, from white to red:

Assyrtiko: This crisp, minerally white grape produces delicious whites with a long finish.

Moschofilero: This aromatic pink variety can make either rosé or white wine; its flavors are similar to muscat or gewürztraminer, but with a crisper acidity.

Agiorghitiko: A full-bodied, rich, low-acid red, this grape (often referred to as St. George) produces some of the most delicious and reliable red wines from Greece.

Mavrodaphne: This meaty, fruity, aromatic red variety is mostly made into fortified dessert wines.

Xinomavro: The name means “acid black,” but when this grape is given long enough to ripen, the results can be extraordinary. Think barolo, but spicier.

Demystifying Retsina

Before bottles and barrels, wine was stored in clay jars called amphorae. Because the jars weren’t airtight, the wine went bad quickly. In order to preserve the wine for longer periods, the amphorae were coated inside with pine resin. Over the centuries, Greeks became accustomed to this flavor and began to enjoy it. Although resin is no longer needed as a preservative, it is added for flavor to wines called retsina. Modern-day retsina is a white wine made from two lesser Greek grapes, Savatiano and Rhoditis, that is aromatized using pine resin.

Although most retsina is too strong for unaccustomed palates, the best are quite delightful—subtly piney, crisp and refresh-ing. The key is to treat retsina as an aperitif like other famous aromatized wines, such as Lillet: Drink it cold. Retsina is so important to Greek wine culture that it has a special protected historic appellation.

Some Retsinas to try (in order from delicate to intensely piney):

Gaia Ritinitis Nobilis Retsina  |  $13.99
Many non-Greeks call this the finest retsina available outside Greece: crisp and balanced with a refreshing hint of pine. Available at The Shop Agora.

NV Malamatina Retsina  |  $5.50 (500ml bottle)
A little less refined, with a delicious, refreshing burst of pine, this is the thing to drink with salty fried fish. Available at The Shop Agora.

NV Cambas Winery Retsina  |  $8.95
This high-quality wine has a powerful, piney character due to a liberal use of resin and is best consumed with food. Available at Champion Wine Cellars.

 

Where to Find Greek Wines

Not every wine shop in Seattle carries Greek wines, but those that do often have a significant selection. Here are a few of our favorites:

2007 Spyros Hatziyannis Santorini  |  $21
100 percent assyrtiko from Santorini. It is crisp, minerally and full of fresh citrus aromas and flavors. Available at Champion Wine Cellars, 108 Denny Way, (206) 284-8306.
 
2007 Skouras Zoë! Rosé Regional Wine from the Peloponnese  |  $10
Agiorghitiko and Moschofilero produce an aromatic, refreshing rosé with raspberry, cranberry and exotic spicy aromas. Available by special order from Pete’s Fine Wines, 134 105th N.E., Bellevue, (425) 454-1100.

2006 Skouras St. George Agiorghitiko Nemea  |  $14.99
A deeply colored, full-bodied red with firm tannins, hints of sweet oak and lots of rich red and black plum flavors. Available at Ballard Market, 1400 N.W. 56th St., (206) 783-7922.

2007 Tsantalis Makedonikos Red Regional Wine  |  $6.99
A blend of Xinomavro and Cinsault produces a medium-bodied red with fresh, grapey raspberry flavors and hints of white pepper. Available at Central Market, 15505 Westminster Way N., Shoreline, (206) 366-9986.

2004 Katogi & Strofilia Xinomavro Naoussa  |  $21
Dark in color, with wild, spicy notes of tobacco, red and black fruit, generous oak and a perfect balance of acidity and tannins. Available at The Shop Agora, 6417-A Phinney Ave. N., (206) 782-5551.

If you want to taste a wide selection of Greek wines in one place, along with lots of great Greek food, consider attending the St. Dimitrios Greek Festival, September 19-21. Details: seattlegreekfestival.com